Chiemsee, the Bavarian Ocean, is the largest lake of Bavaria, measuring 9.25 square miles. The lake and its surroundings are the largest recreation area in Bavaria. The autobahn runs close to the flat and marshy southern bank, while an early Roman road between Salzburg and Augsburg ran along the opposite side, where the Romans also had a settlement. At the time the first monasteries were being founded in Bavaria, two monasteries were built on the islands of the Chiemsee. The smaller island is called the Fraueninsel (Ladies’ Island), because a convent has been operating there ever since the 8th century, with only a short interruption of 30 years in the 19th century. The church of the convent is visible from across the lake by its 17th century onion dome. The original towers date from the 11th century, and even older parts were found during archaeological work in 1961. Among them was the coffin of Blessed Irmingard, a great-granddaughter of Charlemagne. She directed the convent in the 9th century.
The founder of the monastery was the ill-fated Tassilo III, Duke of Bavaria, the last member of the ruling Agilolfing family. He and his family were completely wiped out by Charlemagne. The Dukes of Bavaria were appointed by the king, and had to pay tribute to him, usually in form of military service. The Frankish King Pepin, and later his son Charlemagne, were not pleased with the Bavarian, for Tassilo did not always fulfill his obligations to give military support to them. That Tassilo needed his troops to prevent the Awars from invading Central Europe did not affect their opinion. Tassilo was also the father-in –law of the Lombardic King, a hated enemy of the Franks. Tassilo’s attempt to become independent of the Frankish King resulted in his trial at Ingelheim in 788, at which time he was condemned to death. But he verdict was changed; Tassilo was instead blinded, and the members of his family disappeared behind monastery walls. But his memory survives, as the convent still stands. The village on the island is a lively fishing spot, and courses in pottery and painting are offered there. It was a favorite subject of 19th century painters.
The larger island in the Chiemsee is known as the Herrenchiemsee (Lords’ Island). The entire island was bought in 1873 by King Ludwig II, who not only wished to save its forests, but also to build another of his famous castles there. A visit to Versailles in 1867 had increased Ludwig’s admiration for the Sun King Louis XIV, and this castle was to be a replica of Versailles. Building started in 1878 and lasted until 1885, by which time 20 million marks had been spent and the treasury depleted.
Versailles was again the talk of the country in 1871, at which time the Second German Empire was proclaimed, and Wilhelm I was named Emperor. Germany was in theory a federal state, but was in fact under Prussian domination. Bismarck, the father of the Second Reich, granted Bavaria special rights and privileges. In peacetime Bavarian soldiers still could wear their traditional uniforms, Bavaria could issue her own stamps, and a Prussian embassy was maintained in Munich. Bismarck also provided Ludwig with money for his castles. In 1978, at the 100th anniversary of the laying of the cornerstone of the castle, the music composed for Ludwig’s marriage, which never occurred, was performed. For special occasions, the castle in illuminated by almost 4,000 candles.
The history of this island is much older than Ludwig’s castle. A Benedictine abbey was founded here in the early 8th century. It was destroyed by Hungarian invaders, but reestablished in 1130 by the Archbishop of Salzburg, and remained under a diocesan bishop until the secularization in the early 19th century. Parts of the former Bishop’s palace are used as a hotel today.
In summertime the Chiemsee recreation area is invaded by tourists. They rent motorboats to visit the islands and bordering villages. Large areas are reserved for campers and trailers. Whereas private motorboats are allowed in limited numbers, private sailing boats are unrestricted. The last few years, the wind surfers have dominated the lake. The yachting school and club organize regattas for the many sailors. However, the popularity of sailing is a fairly recent development. Up to the 19th century, traditional rowboats were used, moved by man power. When in 1800 the first tourists came, they were primarily painters form Northern Germany. These guests from the North told the local residents about he boats used in the North sea and the Baltic, and described the sails that propelled them. The Bavarians could not believe in sailing boats, and a bet was made. A race was held between an man-powered boat and an improvised sailboat, which used a tablecloth as the sail. Due to a nice breeze, the sailing boat won, and the locals were convinced.
Before leaving the highway we pass a little town called Bergen. The village church, with its slender spire, houses a rock known as the sinner’s stone. Legend says that Tannhauser, who had accumulated a mountain of sins by enjoying himself in the Venusberg with Venus, the Goddess of Love, decided he wanted to return to normal life. He could only do so by receiving absolution from the Holy Father himself.
Hence, he left Venus, crossed the Alps, and made the pilgrimage to Rome. As penance, he carried a heavy rock on his back all the way from Rome to Bergen, where he dropped it, and where it remained.